Humain de la mode magazine: You are free, Jacquemus!

After the performance, everyone crowded around Simon Porte Jacquemus. I whispered to him… that I would tell him to calm down later. And here it is now. You don’t grow up one day, as you know, Jacquemus. You, you had the first height, the one that you draw on the wall with a pencil, as on paper, and now another. I saw you create Jacquemus with childlike purity, I saw you at your first show completely different, I saw you take the plunge on the evening of your show in the lavender fields (in 2019). I saw you stunned a year ago by the stunning turnover of your company and I just saw you after your Le Papier fashion show at Salins de Giraud, Camargue, just explain that this business with numbers that already seemed crazy to you Well, they flew exponentially. A few years ago, you were thinking big, but no one could have imagined that everything would be like this. I’m proud of you, as strong as the women in your family.

People will see footage of your show that is already everywhere, like a planetary tube. You said : “We will break Instagram! » (you knew) and professionals will wonder why they didn’t think of this sooner while leafing through their collections in the salt crystals of Salins de Giraud, in the Camargue. Damn, it was right before their eyes, in France! But we know they couldn’t have had that idea, because to have it and convince those responsible for Salina, you have to be Jacquemus. You have to come with that authenticity, you have to be creative enough to figure out what the furniture is on the floor, we will make it in salt like a salt igloo to keep it clean. You have to be straightforward enough to keep your promise not to mess anything up. You have to be poetic to suddenly decide a few days before the performance that it would be beautiful and true: two men meet in this desert and embrace while dancing.

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Your clothes, Jacquemus, have also grown. You amaze me, you manage to keep things simple while inventing insurmountable complexities. Collaboration with Nike is inventive in itself, it is far from logos. Your parade is full of brides, grooms. The first suitor, the one in a black suit with a light and wide train of a white veil fluttering in the wind, he is a manifesto, he is mobile, gentle, rebellious and determined, and he achieves his goal. Then your way of keeping the clothes on the body, often with ties, as at the beginning of the history of clothes, is improved. It becomes more and more subtle. It is no longer a connection that goes around the body, it is you who go around the issue of attachments. A question about ties, Jacquemus. We could define your brand as follows.

Why do we need all these clothes? We could answer: “They are portable”. You don’t deny it, you first think of people dressed as Jacquemus on the street. No more than you protect yourself from the consequence of this idea, which is to want to sell. Lunar grounded. Sorry sunshine. Pockets on overalls swollen like hamster cheeks, origami folded clothes on spencers, airbags on summer down jackets, Jacquemus is recognizable in every element. Brands, houses struggle to be recognizable at first sight. You are, and you too fall in love at first. I watched this crowd, at the party after: from your grandmother to the kids, we joked. No one has given up the pleasure. The page is empty. Come on, let’s write it down and light it up.

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